Northeast Asian History Network

Western Wall of the Main Chamber - Lady 1

This is a detailed view of the concubine directly behind the noblewoman depicted on the western wall of the main chamber in Susahn-ri Tomb. Similar to the noblewoman, this concubine is wearing red blush on her forehead and cheeks and has elegant raised hair, conveying a sense of poise. She is depicted to be slightly smaller than the noble couple and their son as a subtle expression of the differences in social status. In other words, this woman is of lower status than the three preceding nobility. Just who exactly is this woman? Is she a maid and close confidant to the noblewoman? The deductive process for the answer is relatively simple. Judging by the close proximity to the noblewoman and similarities in their clothing, this woman is very unlikely to be a maid, but rather the nobleman's second wife. Koguryo was a polygamist society at the time of this mural's creation, and thus, men were able to have multiple wives. Similar scenes have been depicted in other Koguryo tomb murals, thereby giving credence to such speculation.
The concubine can be seen wearing a Jeogori (traditional Korean upper garment) that is remarkably similar to that of the noblewoman. The black Jeogori (traditional Korean upper garment) features elegant red embroidery, and the double Seons (accents on garments mimicking the black feathers on a crane’s neck or wingtips, influenced by Siberian shamanism) on the neckline and sleeves enhance the luxurious appearance. Her Jeogori is in stark contrast to the single-layer, solid-color Seons featured on Jeogoris worn by servants and commoners of the era. The skirt is quite different from that worn by the noblewoman. It’s a solid-color design, and the pleats are very narrow. Perhaps disparity in attire with the nobleman's lawful wife was unavoidable.
The front panels of Jeogoris (traditional Korean upper garment) were worn left to the right in a style known as U-im (Korean style for wearing traditional Hanbok; literally "panel right"). Although the opposite Jwa-im (literally "panel left") style was traditionally worn in Koguryo, both styles gained wide acceptance after U-im was introduced in the region by the Han Chinese. Sunshades, such as those covering the noble couple, are nowhere to be found.
Similar to the noblewoman, the concubine’s hands are in a Gongsu pose (left hand placed above the right in a gesture of respect or submission) out of her wide sleeves. The balanced proportions, colorful embellishments, and flowing attire provide viewers with a glimpse of high-level Koguryo artistry. Just as with the noblewoman, this depiction can be considered as a valuable resource for understanding the extravagant and elegant outfits worn by Koguryo aristocracy.