Northeast Asian History Network

Western Wall of the Main Chamber - Noblewoman

This is a detailed view of the noblewoman depicted on the western wall of the main chamber in Susahn-ri Tomb. The noblewoman is wearing red blush on her forehead and cheeks and elegant raised hair, conveying a sense of poise in her outing. A maid can be seen holding a long sunshade (used by nobles in ancient times for sun protection, similar to a modern-day parasol) behind the noblewoman. The difference in scale between these two figures is nearly absurd. This unique method of portraiture depicts various figures in different scales depending on the person's social standing.
The noblewoman is wearing a black Jeogori (traditional Korean upper garment) with elegant red embroidery, and the neckline and sleeves feature double Seons (accents on garments mimicking the black feathers on a crane’s neck or wingtips, influenced by Siberian shamanism) to enhance the luxurious appearance. Her attire is in stark contrast to the single-layer, solid-color Seons featured on Jeogoris worn by servants and commoners of the era. The pleats on the noblewoman's skirt are very wide and finished in the five cardinal colors (Wu Xing). Judging by the small section of a skirt visible on the severely-deteriorated northern wall, this noblewoman is surmised to be the very same person in the portrait of the deceased. Because this type of luxurious clothing was worn only by highborn nobility in Koguryo, it can be considered as a reflection of the noble couple's wealth and extravagant lifestyles.
The front panels of Jeogoris (traditional Korean upper garment) were worn left to the right in a style known as U-im (Korean style for wearing traditional Hanbok; literally "panel right"). Although the opposite Jwa-im (literally "panel left") style was traditionally worn in Koguryo, both styles gained wide acceptance after U-im was introduced in the region by the Han Chinese. The plump face, flowing attire, and balanced proportions provide viewers with a glimpse of high-level Koguryo artistry.
The maid's plain, swept-back hairstyle indicates that she is young and unmarried. The women of Koguryo wore their hair tied up in a bun to indicate their espoused marital status. The maid is wearing a long Jeogori with a waistband for increased mobility and a narrow, creased skirt. The Seons at the neckline, sleeves, and bottom hemline of the maid’s Jeogori indicate that this feature was applied to Koguryo-era upper garments regardless of gender, age, or social status.
The sunshade in the image was used by nobles in ancient times for sun protection, similar to a modern-day parasol. The handle of the black sunshade is bent rather than straight, and this feature allowed servants to comfortably protect a person from the sun at a certain distance. This image provides viewers with a glimpse of the Koguryo people's ingenuity.
Unlike the preceding nobleman and young man, the noblewoman's hands are in a Gongsu pose (left hand placed above the right in a gesture of respect or submission) out of her wide sleeves. The balanced proportions, colorful embellishments, flowing attire, and creative expressions provide viewers with a glimpse of high-level Koguryo artistry. This depiction can be considered as a valuable resource for understanding the extravagant and elegant outfits worn by Koguryo aristocracy.