Northeast Asian History Network

Western Wall of the Main Chamber - Nobleman

This is a detailed view of the nobleman depicted on the western wall of the main chamber in Susahn-ri Tomb. The nobleman's attire is particularly grand, and the stern look on his face adds to the solemn aura. A valet can be seen holding a long sunshade behind the nobleman. The difference in scale between these two figures is nearly absurd. This unique method of portraiture depicts various figures in different scales depending on the person's social standing and importance.
A closer examination of the nobleman reveals that he is wearing a Chilsa-gwan (official hat worn by military attaché in ancient China; also known as Mugwan or Long-gwan) over a military attaché Chaek (Headwear worn by civil servants and military attachés. Civil servants wore Chaeks with tops that were split in the back and curving forward. Military attachés wore Chaeks with cone-shaped points.). The Chilsa-gwan is an upside-down U-shaped official hat that hangs below the ears and tied at the chin. The red strap that ties at the chin can be clearly seen in the image. The fine, mesh-like silk texture of the Chilsa-gwan is well-realized in a transparent gray color to differentiate it from the black Naegwan (literally "inner hat").
The nobleman is dressed in a long Durumagi (traditional Korean overcoat), trousers, and an inner-Jeogori (traditional Korean upper garment). Although the Jeogori is clearly visible behind the collar of the Durumagi, the trousers are actually not visible in the painting. The Durumagi is secured with a waistband, and a vibrant red Peseul (a front flap on court or ceremonial attire; literally "knee cover") can be seen by his abdomen. Peseuls were parts of formal attire worn only by royalty or high-ranking government officials. The neckline, sleeves, and bottom hemline of the nobleman's Durumagi feature black Seons (accents on garments mimicking the black feathers on a crane’s neck or wingtips, influenced by Siberian shamanism). Seons were a common feature in garments worn by northern nomadic tribes. In addition to the decorative effect, the Seon also has a practical purpose of preventing wear. As the necklines, sleeves, and hemlines of garments are prone to wear, these robes were reinforced with different color fabric in each of these areas, thereby enhancing practicality and decoration.
The front panels of Jeogoris (traditional Korean upper garment) were worn left to the right in a style known as U-im (Korean style for wearing traditional Hanbok; literally "panel right"). Although the opposite Jwa-im (literally "panel left") style was traditionally worn in Koguryo, both styles gained wide acceptance after U-im was introduced in the region by the Han Chinese. The plump face, flowing attire, and balanced proportions provide viewers with a glimpse of high-level Koguryo artistry.
The valet's plain, topknot-less hair indicates that he is unmarried. He is wearing attire that enhances mobility including a long Jeogori with a waistband and form-fitting trousers known as Gung-go. The Seons at the neckline, sleeves, and bottom hemline of the valet’s Jeogori indicate that this feature was applied to Koguryo-era upper garments regardless of gender, age, or social status.
The sunshade in the image was used by nobles in ancient times for sun protection, similar to a modern-day parasol. The handle of the black sunshade is bent rather than straight, and this feature allowed servants to comfortably protect a person from the sun at a certain distance. This image provides viewers with a glimpse of the Koguryo people's ingenuity.
The nobleman appears to be gazing at the acrobatic performers in front with a look of curiosity. Notably, his hands are depicted not in a Gongsu pose (left hand placed above the right in a gesture of respect or submission), but rather seem to mimic Buddha's hands. The balanced proportions, flowing attire, and creative expressions provide viewers with a glimpse of high-level Koguryo artistry.