Northeast Asian History Network

Northern Wall of the Main Chamber - Maid 2

This is a detailed view of the maids depicted on the northern wall of the main chamber in Susahn-ri Tomb. Three maids can be seen standing side-by-side holding various dishes of food to be served to the noblewoman. The women are nearly identical in attire except in color.
The basic attire for women during the Koguryo era consisted of a Jeogori (traditional Korean upper garment) and skirt or pants. Not all women of the time wore skirts as some maids that required a certain amount of mobility wore pants instead. Koguryo-era skirts were creased and featured Seons (accents on garments mimicking the black feathers on a crane's neck or wingtips, influenced by Siberian shamanism) at the hemline. They were similar in appearance to modern-day pleated skirts. Although all Koguryo women wore skirts regardless of class, the differences in status can be verified through the different fabrics, patterns, and colors depicted in murals. Skirts from the period were relatively varied with hemlines that reached the shins, ankles, or feet.
The Jeogoris and creased skirts seen in the image were typical attire for Koguryo women of the time. The necklines, sleeves, and trims of the Jeogoris feature Seons, and the skirts completely cover the feet. Seons were a common feature in garments worn by northern nomadic tribes. In addition to the decorative effect, the Seon also has a practical purpose of preventing wear. Aesthetically, treating the necklines, sleeves, and hemlines in different colors highlighted the brilliance of the clothing, while reinforcing these areas with the different fabrics enhanced the garments’ practicality and durability.
The front panels of Jeogoris (traditional Korean upper garment) were worn left to the right in a style known as U-im (Korean style for wearing traditional Hanbok; literally "panel right"). Although the opposite Jwa-im (literally "panel left") style was traditionally worn in Koguryo, both styles gained wide acceptance after U-im was introduced in the region by the Han Chinese. The plump face, flowing attire, and balanced proportions provide viewers with a glimpse of high-level Koguryo artistry.
The women have their hair tied up in buns indicating that they are married. This depiction provides viewers with a glimpse of the type of dress and hairstyles worn by women of Koguryo.